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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:53 pm 
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Excellent work, so far, Jazz!

Roy, If the HO scale track is meant to represent 36" gauge track, then the models would actually be slightly smaller than O scale--actually 1:56th scale--where .21" on the model = 1 foot on the prototype.

On oddball scale to be sure!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:18 pm 
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I build HO models and they are not supposed any particular scale, just trying to build a proportional model that looks "RIGHT", In fact all of the models of Disneyland trains are a little big but since I expect to run them with other standard HO trains only the folks on this board may care. I'd have to spend a lot more money for true 3 foot narrow guage. Give me a cheap locomotive that I won't cry over the price if I screw it up, and I can have fun for weeks.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 10:24 am 
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Steve DeGaetano wrote:
...Roy, If the HO scale track is meant to represent 36" gauge track, then the models would actually be slightly smaller than O scale--actually 1:56th scale--where .21" on the model = 1 foot on the prototype.

On oddball scale to be sure!

Steve,

I'm also working on the same Tyco tenwheelers. I'm building to S scale(1/64,) and using HO gauge, which is closer to 3' 6". One of the rules I'm going by is to use the stock Tyco motor and chassis, which are a tight fit, but I think that I can still switch to true Sn3 later, if I want.

I really like S scale, as I do Hot Wheels mods, too. And Xmas Dept.56-type buildings are close to S scale.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 10:28 am 
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jazzfan4 wrote:
...I'd have to spend a lot more money for true 3 foot narrow guage. Give me a cheap locomotive that I won't cry over the price if I screw it up, and I can have fun for weeks.


I totally agree! More pictures, please... :D


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 1:45 pm 
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Hey Jazzfan,

The trains are looking great, keep up the good work. What are you going to use for the stack for the Walter E. I have been thinking about taking the stack off of my Lilly Belle and making a mold of it and casting a duplicate out of resin for my Holiday. Haven't had a lot of time lately to do so with trying to get into a house and all but maybe in a month or two I can get to that little project. Can't wait to see more photos. Hope the photos I took on my honeymoon have been of assistance with your work.

Brian


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 1:57 pm 
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Brian

Since your Holliday is based on the Bachmann Locomotive that is an excellent idea. I have a some extra stacks from Roundhouse Climax and shay kits and I'll try to modify them much like the modified stack for my Holliday which was the original IHC stack with an added cone on top rather than the screen. I may even go back and swap the stacks that I used on the climax and shay if they'll work for the WDW locomotives. ARRG, I've got some pirating to do.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 7:25 pm 
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Jazzfan I know exactly what you mean. I have stolen stacks off of some of my other locomotives for my Disneyland models.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:37 pm 
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Well this thread made it all the way to the bottom and after the "Special Project" I'm back to working on my WDW locomotives. I have all the frames and boilers modified and working but still very rough looking. Cabs are also being reworked, all have peaked roof's and I'm working on roof vents and side panels so the names will be recessed as on the full sized loco's. Still debating on shortening the tender box and adding the tool/battery boxes on the back. Also debating changing the tender trucks since WDW is not using Arch Bars.

Since these all started and tyco roger's 10 wheelers the smoke box cover will not be as flat but in the grand sceme of things they look pretty good. I take a few photo's to post Sunday afternoon.

Happy Rails


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 9:25 am 
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jazzfan4 wrote:
...I'm back to working on my WDW locomotives...

Very much looking forward to your pics! BTW, I have some techniques for your dome bases and tapered boiler courses, if you still need them.

When you say "tender box", are you referring to the water tank? I haven't shortened a Rogers tender tank yet, but I have removed the molded handrails and ladder, plus the outer plastic deck and frame, and "step" between the two forward water legs. Also, I rounded the front faces of the water legs. I've also built a new deck and frame from sheet brass. It has room on the back for an air tank, Rio Grande style.

As for smokebox doors, check out old plastic pill bottle bottoms. And if all else fails, entire boiler fronts are easy enough to face and turn on your Dremel tool.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:58 pm 
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Well here are the photo's I promised. I should have white under the loco's so you can see the wheels but that's life. The modified tender is the same in all photo's since I've only done one so far, and it still need steps. The rear deck is about twice as wide and I'd like to go more but that would mean cutting away the internal weight in the tender and I can build a battery box that will look Okay. I have more work on the stacks for Roy and Walter but I plan on using the Diamond stacks on Roger and Lilly, they're pretty close. I had to add 1.5 ounces to the cab of Roy to get better balance and weight on the rear axle.


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