Western River Railroad model

CP173 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 18, 2004 2:06 am **Posts:** 1648

I prime and paint, and then sand the paint and printer off of the contact areas. Some of the pieces have to be glued around other pieces. Masking those small areas would be difficult, and I sure don't want overspray, so the only alternative is to paint first.

Steve DeGaetano · **Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:16 pm

I use primer as much to see my surface flaws than as a base for a finish coat. When I assemble a model, the last thing I'll do is prime it. That flat gray makes even the most subtle blemish show up, and I can smooth what I need to smooth before applying the final coat.

S. Towler · **Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:49 pm

Wet-sanding (usually something fine, like 600 grit) automotive primer works beautifully; ultra smooth surfaces!

Roy · **Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:39 pm

CP173 wrote:

...Some of the pieces have to be glued around other pieces. Masking those small areas would be difficult, and I sure don't want overspray, so the only alternative is to paint first.

The advantage to assembling plastic kits before painting is that unprototypical seams, such as left and right boiler halves, can be worked to invisibility.

As for masking, there are liquids that can be used for small areas. Just peal it off after painting.

Pennyf9Train · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:17 am

Steve DeGaetano wrote:

I use primer as much to see my surface flaws than as a base for a finish coat. When I assemble a model, the last thing I'll do is prime it. That flat gray makes even the most subtle blemish show up, and I can smooth what I need to smooth before applying the final coat.

thats a good idea, i should try it.

Pennyf9Train · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:21 am

Steve DeGaetano wrote:

Pennyf9Train (did you mean to write "Pennsyf9Train" instead?),

It really isn't necessary to quote CP173 's entire first post every time you ask questions. We've all read it before.

And it's OK to just ask the question once until you hear back from CP173. You've now asked him three times whether he's built the model (I deleted one); and as both Steve and I indicated, the answer appears to be "no."

oops, sorry. I am new here, when i typed the comment, it didn't say "view your submitted message" so i thought guess it didn't post. won't happen again , man i need to learn more about commenting.

Pennyf9Train · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:23 am

Steve DeGaetano wrote:

Pennyf9Train (did you mean to write "Pennsyf9Train" instead?),

It really isn't necessary to quote CP173 's entire first post every time you ask questions. We've all read it before.

And it's OK to just ask the question once until you hear back from CP173. You've now asked him three times whether he's built the model (I deleted one); and as both Steve and I indicated, the answer appears to be "no."

it is pronnounced Pennyf9Train, because my youtube account is Pennyf9, i like making account names easier to remember, but Pennsyf9train sounds cool too.

Pennyf9Train · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:26 am

Steve wrote:

Pennyf9Train wrote:

did you build the model yet?

Considering he said he would post photos of construction as it progresses, and there aren't any photos yet, I think the answer is obvious.

sorry, i wanted to know if he finished it before posting photos, lesson #1, don't ask is it done yet if their are no photos posted

CP173 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 18, 2004 2:06 am **Posts:** 1648

After what seems like an eternity, I finally had some "free" time to work on this model. It's fully assembled and I'm just applying decals now. The problems is... the decals are 30 years old and the adhesive seems to have degraded somewhat over the years.

Even though I gave them a smooth surface and wet it down before applying, once the decals dried I have very noticeable air bubbles underneath. Does anyone know of a "fix" for this? I'm wondering if there's some type of overcoat that I can apply that will soak through the decals and help them bond better to the model.

Luckily, I've only applied the decals to the "non-show" side of the model, so I can make adjustments to how the other side is applied.

I had no problems with the decals for the combines that I made, so I have to think it was the age of the materials and not my technique. But, I'm open to any constructive suggestions.

Ideas, anyone?

CP173 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 18, 2004 2:06 am **Posts:** 1648

Here's a photo of the assembled but mostly undecorated model:

Western River Railroad model

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